Walking around the massive Tsukiji Fish Market in the south-east corner of Tokyo it's hard to believe there's anything at all left in the ocean. Men heave huge frozen tuna onto wooden benches, saw them up, thaw them out and carve them into pieces with swords. Everywhere there are polystyrene boxes spilling over with slippery tentacles and glassy-eyed fish. You need to be alert to avoid being mown down by the small trucks whizzing around the paths, and also be aware that, generally speaking, the fishermen are tired of tourists, so ask permission and don't get in their way - they have swords. At the back of the market there are a couple of alleys of small restaurants where you can eat sashimi and sushi from the morning's catch: reward for resisting the temptation to sink your teeth into one of those succulent fish as you slithered your way through the market.
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